Saturday, July 2, 2011

Traveling in Sucre - The White City

After spending about five weeks in Sucre, Ryan and I have come to feel that we know the place. The White City was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the early 90`s thanks to its all-white downtown colonial architecture.  Plaza 25 de Mayo is certainly one of the most pleasant places to stroll in Sucre, and it was also the site of the initial South American declarations of independence. It was at La Casa de Libertad that Simon de Bolivar met with a delegate of lawyers and statesmen to draft the first Bolivian constitution.  Although he was asked to be Bolivia`s first president, he refused, envisioning instead one large country that would have united most of the countries of present-day South America.  Instead, Antonio Jose de Sucre was named Bolivia`s first president, and the city still carries his namesake today.

A statue of Simon de Bolivar in La Casa de Libertad

Sucre is a wealthier city in comparison to La Paz, known for its lawyers, pleasant views, and relaxing cafes.  Many of the people here identify either with their Quechua heritage or have largely adopted Western culture, while most of the residents of La Paz identify strongly as Aymaran. Predictably, these factions have produced political tensions, and many of the people of Sucre seem wary of the current Aymaran president, Evo Morales. Indeed, the people of Sucre insist that Sucre is the capital of Bolivia while those in La Paz insist that it is La Paz. Although we`re still not sure who to believe, we know that Sucre houses the judicial branch of the national government, while the legistlative and executive branches are located in La Paz.

A government building on the plaza.
Among the Sucre highlights is Parque Bolivar--named (like many many other places) after Simon de Bolivar.  Cotton candy at Parque Bolivar costs ten cents, and you can climb a miniature version of the Eiffel Tower in the center of the park.

Inside the mini-Eiffel Tower at Parque Bolivar

Outside the mini-Eiffel Tower
We also visited the city`s cemetery, where bodies are stacked one atop another in individual coffins. It was a bit of a morbid trip but recommended by many other tourists.

Sucre´s main cemetery

There is also no shortage of parades in Sucre, as we´ve stumbled upon them accidentally more times than we can count.  Just about every school and police station has a marching band.

One of many parades outside our window at Biblioworks
There are two large markets in Sucre--El Mercado Central, located just off the main plaza, and the Campesino Market, a bit farther off. You can buy almost anything you need at the Campesino Market at a good price, but it may take you hours to find it!  We spent a few days trying to track down a lamp, which we eventually located in a toy store.  You can buy entire slabs of meat here, but it`s best to think about how long that slab has been hanging among dogs and flies before investing. We tend to stick to vegetables (one kilo of tomatoes costs about twenty-five cents!).

Ryan looks at mantas at the Campesino Market
You have no choice but to buy spices in bulk.
Vegetables in the Campesino Market
 Lastly, Sucre is known (or has tried to become known) for its dinosaur tracks. There is a park here where you can see some original dinosaur tracks as well as a number of statues, but it´s really an attraction for children.  Nonetheless, the city has benefited from some of the world´s most unique phone booths.
In Sucre, you can call your friends from the belly of a dinosaur!
With its temperate climate, colonial architecture, numerous plazas, and relaxing cafes, Sucre has been an excellent place for an extended stay, and we could easily live in such a city.  Nonetheless, we´ll be heading out before we know it!
Streetview, Sucre, near the city center.
One of many white churches in Sucre.
View from our roof over Sucre

Sunset over Sucre, from La Recoleta.


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